Bollywood, badminton, and beach dancing

Cow Count: 811

Quick Check in...
Since returning from Dindigal picking up Amy we've found ourselves in a bit of a holding pattern, passing the time, learning Indian games, and exploring more of the immediate parts of Chennai. Our research has stalled a little, waiting for a meeting that could not happen until today. At this meeting we were able to set up (with the generous help of Parush Uncle) a 7 day, circuit of 3 NGO's working in rural areas along the coast, areas that were hit by the tsunami. I'm very excited for the freedom and independence that I think is in store on this mini- trip. We'll be staying in a hotel near the center of a town outside of Chennai. Also this weekend we are being visited by Angie Hsu, a friend that I met and became close with while teaching in China. She rocks. I have no doubts that we will have a delightfully wonderiffic time.

The happenin's...
So I think the best way to talk about the last several days may be via a list of tidbits. (which I didn't know was a real word until just now)

-Visited the beach last night. Made a friend while playing tag games, and ended up dancing in the surf. Only complaint is that the stars here are small and scarce.

-Its been really great having Amy here. She is a dear friend and has jumped in with both feet. Her blond hair and blue eyes attract even more stares than my goofy mug.

-Conversations about dating, arranged marriages, and what are called love marriages with Teju's cousins have given me a small peek into one aspect of the cultural changes at work here. I've enjoyed watching and wondering about India's seemingly selective mix of east and west.

-We got to watch serious badminton- something I had never seen and was really impressed by- When it was our turn to play, both Teju and Amy beat me repeatedly.

-A further perk of having Amy here is having someone to share my confusion when the conversation changes to Tamil.

- Still adjusting to the presence of servants. Specifically, I'm a little bothered by the fact that the role of servant seems to reach beyond simple employment and touch the way that they view themselves, and perhaps even their worth. I'm unsure of how the whole caste thing plays into this, and should also note that they seem happy for the most part. I wish very much that I could speak and understand Tamil, as I would like to be able to talk to them about all this. It has given me a whole new perspective on the ideas of servant leadership, Christ's washing of the disciples feet, the last being first, and the story of Cinderella.

-We've watched two Bollywood films and I've really enjoyed them. Every Bollywood film is a musical, and the films we have watched so far have a distinctive, sappy, cheesy charm. They were also at times clever and emotionally poignant. (Janessa, you really need to watch some Bollywood movies right now!)

-We've continued to play Uno, which I've enjoyed. I think (and hope) we might up the stakes and move to a game requiring a little more strategy sometime very soon.

Thanks for taking the time to check up on us, more to come. Much love and best wishes to all!
MDK

Amy's Here!

The one and only Amy Jackson has arrived. Woohoo!!

Photos

So you should be able to access my web album via the link labeled photos to the right.


In case of technical difficulty you should perhaps know that the link will send you to: http://s257.photobucket.com/albums/hh218/mkosht/India/?albumview=grid

10,000, 400, 14

Cow Count: 768

Overview of events...
For the last three days, Teju and I visited the rural development branch of an NGO (KKSS, an organization who's website is linked on the right) in Dindigul, India. After a 9 hour bus ride, we were subject to more Indian hospitality- which here means: transportation, a very nice room, three delivered meals a day, and the opportunity to interview both their manager and a group of 15 women from a nearby village for our research. Here are a few of the events from the trip that will stand out as very fond memories for a long time.

Arrival...
After breakfast at a local hotel we were picked up on motorcycle by the manager and his assistant. We held on tight as we made our way through the streets of Dindgul and out onto the country roads that led us to the headquarters and guest house. Just remembering it enough to write about it brings adrenaline - there are few times in recent memory that I can recall feeling more alive. At this point we were precisely 10,000 miles by plane, 400 km by bus, and 14 km by motorcycle from beloved Colorado.

Cricket, prayer, and another 8 year old who stole my heart...
On the second day of our visit after our work, we were collected by the local village boys for our novelty (probably been a while since they had seen white skin in these parts) and included in game of cricket. I must say they must have been disappointed by selecting me as a captain (it didn't take long for my natural athletic ability (or lack there of) to show itself) We had fun all the same, and I nearly hit the cricket equivalent of a home run on the second to last pitch-to win! Instead, Teju caught me out and we lost.

I didn't have much time for the loss to sting, however, because we were soon on our way to a prayer service in a local village. The village that we interviewed was Christian (a minority, by my understanding) and they graciously invited us back to attend their nightly prayer meeting. I rode to the village sandwiched between 3 Indian villagers on a motorcycle (poor motorcycle). Hearing prayers offered in Tamil, a local language, I couldn't help but try to imagine all the thanksgiving, praise, and supplication, that must rise constantly in a uniquely human jumble before the throne of God Almighty. What does it mean to place my own prayers amongst these and to weigh my own concerns against my quickly expanding notion of 6.2 billion people?

One other memory I hope to hold on to was of a little friend that I made. Her name was Escarolina Chitra, the 8 year old daughter of the night watchman. We spent several hours one night attempting to talk to her, her father, and sisters, prior to falling asleep. While the language barrier was as obtrusive as I've ever found it to be, we were still able to communicate a little (a shared liking of swings for one thing) and I've taken to trying to imagine her future. What will her hopes for life be? Where will she work? Who will she love? What would it mean to come to know her as an intimate friend?

A larger question: How does one go about beginning to multiply the intricacy of one life's hopes and tears by the absurd number of other people we keep bumping into?

No answers here... just thought i'd share some thoughts this was all bringing up.


I'm planning on hopefully having a link to a web album up by later tonight, which would have pics from the whole trip.
Thanks for the prayer and support!
MDK

Sunday Driving...

Events...
Yesterday, I found myself in the beneficiary of more Indian hospitality as we visited another of Teju's family relations for lunch, which was abundant. After being greeted and welcomed warmly and fed thoroughly, I was even included in the gift giving. We then spent the afternoon taking a long, leisurely drive to mamabalipurum, a historical sight and beach on the coast. It was very pretty and full of people, jostling, and poignant smells. I'm happy to report that it was a very good day for cow counting, and our new total is 554.
Last night, we found ourselves out for a late ice cream although it was very difficult to find a place. In this city of 10 million people, there is almost nothing open past 11. Where do all the restless, constrained energies of youth find their release?

Observational tidbits...
-STD is an abbreviation which, here, has something to do with making phone calls... this means that it is regularly advertised as something to be provided by stores, right below FAX and color copies. My favorite version is a cell phone add that ends with a black screen and "STD @ 1.5 Rs. / min"
-Indians, (at least the ones i'm around) frequently state a questions/ statement by stating their guess at the answer before adding "eh?" Almost like a Canadian.
- The language is very difficult to pick up- i'm pretty sure there are subtleties between pronunciations that just don't exist in English. This makes them very difficult to remember, much less pronounce correctly. This has been the source of much frustration- especially when it comes to the names of people I've just met.
-Uno is fantastic
-Every student i've met is studying engineering or something related to business. Medicine is supposedly also popular. The idea of a liberal arts education (by which I mean study without a specific job in sight) seems to be non-existent. (although I'm told it happens)

Click, Click, Click

Cow Count: 147

Blessings...
Today was one of the most exciting days that I've had in a long time. Long story short we met with a man who A) founded an incredibly successful local NGO that takes care of abandon babies, shelters women, rehabilitates drug addicts, and houses the destitute and abandon elderly and B) has provided us with full access to the ideal subjects for our research. Due to his influence we will spend the next x days (x = the number of days we need) traveling through the countryside from NGO to NGO (minimum 5 total) and visiting the villages and tribes that they work in. Basically, as far as our research is concerned, today was a home run beyond our most hopeful and optimistic expectations.

Babies...
We also had the opportunity to visit the Angel house today, an orphanage that deals primarily with abandon babies. They had recently received 12 toddlers from a near by orphanage that had been shut down due to poor operating procedures. These kids were extremely cute and in clearly in need of love and individual attention. We also met Alexi (how interesting that this should be her name!), a college aged student from Canada, that has spent a good part of last year loving on these little kids after having found the place randomly. The love the kids displayed towards her bore witness to her impact in the place. I found her work there inspiring- all the more so because I got the impression that she was very-much-so not about herself and her own goodness, but was moved by the children themselves.

Suspense...
I feel as though right now we are strapped into a roller coaster that has just left the platform and is climbing slowly up the track- Click, Click, Click. The last few days have been quiet and uneventful- time filled with reading, writing, walks and conversations with Tej, and lots and lots of food. Tomorrow, we take one last day of vacation-like-living (we are visiting ma-ha-bolly-poor-um(no clue on the spelling) a temple south of the city) and then on Monday take a train into rural India... I don't know what exactly this will hold, but it sounds like all the adventure for which I have been hoping. I am so excited for our work here to begin in earnest.

Greeks and Romans...
I have been reading an enthralling history of the Greeks and Romans... The Classical World by Robin Fox. Today I read the story of Antony and Cleopatra for the first time and was absolutely fascinated. I've taken my interest in this book to be a very good sign, given the change of majors I recently made. The book has also helped provide a new perspective on the New Testament as I learn more and more about the world in which Christ was born, and the cities to which Paul wrote. It has also been a very interesting set of ideas to have rolling through my head as I encounter a culture that does not have its roots in Greek and Roman history...

How has Hollywood not taken advantage of the story of a man who gives up a legitimate shot at ruling the world for a mad love affair? Perhaps this is more the realm of poetry...


Might not have a chance to write for several days... Thanks for the prayers! God is good.
MDK

Rickshaw Riddin'

No change in the cow count...

Have another video to share. This was taken out the side of an auto-rickshaw. If you've ever ridden in one of these, you will agree that this doesn't go very far towards capturing the experience. The frequent honking, all-pervasive heat, and strong smells are missing. I suppose it is a peek nonetheless.

Indian BBQ, exploring the city

Cow Count: 127
Mitchell's Digestive Forcast: More info than you want

A Video that I took from the window of the local transit train:



The happenins:
So things are still fairly slow and thats fine by me. The majority of my time has thus far been spent playing, thinking, reading, and exploring the city. The streets here are a sprawling maze of random turns and countless little shops. Even the Taxi drivers seem to have given up on knowing where things are... we've yet to have a auto-rickshaw ride that did not operate by the method of getting close to where we are going and then asking two or three times for directions.

Went exploring/ walking around the other day. Found a train station and hopped a train to a part of town that looked interesting... the video above was taken out the window.

Last night we went to an absolutely delicious BBQ place where I had some of the first meat i've had since being in the country. Its a pity that more Indian people don't eat meat because with all their skills with seasoning they cook up some screamingly good BBQ. Had a live band singing western covers- highlight was Simon and Garfunkel's "Cecelia"

Research is going very well... The director at MIDS offered us full use of the library there and to look over our project proposal. Yesterday we met with a friend from teju's father's med school days who now works in government... we asked him a whole barrage of questions which he patiently answered. He then gave us the contact information to a man who will help us set up meetings with 5-10 NGO's in the next couple of weeks for our research- a huge breakthrough!

Musings:

Recently encountered James 1:25. a verse that was very challenging... a call to start doing the work and pursuing the path laid out ahead of me. There is much more here working in my heart... Lots that i've thinking about, but can't yet formulate or will choose not talk about it in a blog post...

Would like to offer a correction to my previous thoughts here. Further research (I used Wikipedia... please don't tell PLC) has revealed that I had confused the stages of life (Ashram) with the Aims of life (purusharthas) These seem to be not all that different from many of the goals that I observe in myself and in the Judeo-Christian culture in which I was raised. Perhaps pursuit of wealth, love, righteousness, and salvation are not mere cultural constructs of either, but tell us something universal about the human spirit.

quick cultural observances:
Puns are flying around all the time here as any well educated adult speaks at least three languages. (English, Hindi, and a local Language) The mixing leads to all sorts of wordplay which i'm sure i would find impressive if I understood what was being said.

kindly is used instead of please especially on signs as in "kindly don't smoke here"

Thanks for reading, caring and supporting!
Much love,
Mitch

Brittany Spears and the Jughead special

Cow count is at 121.
Cultural observances:

1) We eat with our hands, which is in my experience the only energy efficient way to eat rice known to man. No offense to anyone, but chopsticks suck compared to fingers.
2) Indians are prone to using the word Hello, pronouced "Hallo," in the same way that we use hey. That is to say it doubles as an indignant interjection (as in"Hallo! you just stepped on my toe.) and a greeting.
3) everything is funnier with an Indian accent...
"When we going to start! Jesus-Christ-Superstar!"
"I just did it to get my jollies"
"De Girlfriend is vacco"
guess you had to be there...
4) In the Foyer to the house we are staying in one wall is windows, two house ornate statues of Hindu gods and the fourth has a Thomas Kincade painting in gilded frame.
5) The regional governor is celebrating his birthday and has the city decorated with 30 ft. images of himself made of Christmas lights and wire. I'll be sure to take a picture of these cause they're awesome.
6) I attract a whole lot of stares... i'm the only non indian i've seen outside the airport. Yesterday during an auto-rickshaw ride a guy next to us on his motorcycle pointed me out to his little boy (also on the motorcycle, its common for children, even whole families to get around on a single bike). The facial patterns of the kid followed a pattern i've come to expect: Wide eyed wonder quickly replaced by a solemn strait face the minute he realizes i'm looking at him, which slowly cracks into a open hearted smile. At this point I waved and he waved and then was gone careening through traffic.
7) Indians don't nod up and down but side to side... make the sign for infinity with your nose and thats about it. this means yes, maybe, and occasionally no.

How I avoided Laser guided Lava sharks:

I didn't really. Just wanted a title that would draw you in. sorry mom.
So yesterday was a great day...
We have been taking it pretty slow, things should intensify work wise as our meetings begin to schedule and happen. Had a really great lunch with Teju's Great Aunt and Uncle. They were gracious, generous, and after lunch we had a fascinating talk about the cultural changes that came about when the British left, the current state of government, and local politics.
Yesterday night I was introduced to the Jughead special, which is probably the most delicious type of milkshake like fruit drink in the history of milk, fruit, or drinks. Yumminess, had over silly and fun conversation with Harini (Teju's cousin) and her friend Dar Shena (misspelled). Brittany Spears and other sleazy american 90's pop was playing in the Ice Cream shop. We then played a game that I can only describe as Indian Finger pool called carrom, and of course Uno until about 2 AM. Very enjoyable evening.

Today we have a meeting scheduled with the director of the Madras Institute of Development Studies, and tomorrow a meeting with a man in the rural development department of the state government. Both of these are very promising to our research.
Love to all,
MDK

A Note to my Mother

Mom. So on reading what I wrote last night in regards to driving I just want to add the following to ease your heart. Those most at risk in the tumult of the streets here are pedestrians, bicyclists, and motorcyclists. When driving around it is the danger to them that I had in mind when I (perhaps over-dramatically) mentioned "the violence a hairsbreadth away". Those of us in cars (which we have access to via the generosity of Teju's family) are well protected in case of an accident. You should also know that Teju's cousins were surprised by the accident and said that it is not as common as my western eyes, observing the chaotic traffic here assumed it to be. Also in our favor is the fact that all traffic is considerably slower, the vehicles smaller, and all drivers here are much more attentive. Driving here is not a task that can be relegated to the sub-conscience.
I love you very much and promise to come home in one piece.

Sneaky snake

Sandcastles and driving in the developing world

Events of the day:

Woke up slow and received a meticulous and much need hair cut. (the hairlady practically cut them one at a time.) Then went for a long drive through the city. We spotted 111 cows thus far on the trip and are keeping a running tally. Drove out to an ocean overlook where my tree fetish was satisfied by these monstrous jungle beauties... (so we're clear, monstrous jungle beauties refers to the trees...)

After that, we drove back into the city and went to the beach where I introduced Harini, Teju's cousin, to the meticulous arts of sandcastle construction. We also shot balloons with bb guns, and much to my shame, I was ruthlessly out shot by tej... Upon returning we ate, read, and went to a local ice cream parlor for butterscotch shakes. Delicious day.

However pleasant all these light hearted, picture book experiences may have sounded just now they were over shadowed at least in part by one moment that I was unable to shake from my mind. On our way through traffic to the ocean overlook we passed an accident that had just occurred- A truck and a motorcycle, head on, one fatality. The only laws that rule these roads are Newtons, and one cannot help but assume that for the millions of people in this city and all over the developing world, what we witnessed was not uncommon. With the chaotic weave of developing world traffic, one assumes that this sort of thing must happen, that eventually someone misses a gap they're shooting, someone fails to yield, and people die. To see this heretofore remote hypothetical brought to life is hard to forget as you weave through traffic fully conscience of the violence that is a hairbreadth away.

Project Description

For anyone who hasn't heard exactly what we are doing here on the other side of the planet I thought this project description might be helpful:


Project Summary

Purpose: The purpose of this research project is to examine the relationship between the selection criteria of rural development NGOs (non-governmental organizations) in India and their ability to improve material conditions in those locations. The ultimate goal of this research is to understand the conditions in communities most favorable to rural development in order to enable the researchers to develop community selection criteria for their own NGO initiative, the SHARED Element (www.sharedelement.org).

Project outline: The prevalence of rural poverty is striking, considering that of the 1.2 billion people that live on less than $1 a day, 75% live and work in rural areas[i]. India has between 1 and 2 million NGOs, two-thirds of which are focused on rural areas[ii]. And yet, rural poverty in India has only decreased by about 0.74% since 1993[iii]. Why does this rural poverty persist? There could be a number of explanations. This team of investigators is interested in exploring selection methodology used by various NGOs and the relationship between selection techniques and effectiveness. Do these selection criteria impact effectiveness? And if so, are NGOs focusing their efforts where they could make the most difference? What communities should NGOs work with?

Our investigation explores the answer to these questions. The investigators will travel to Bangalore and Chennai in India to meet with 5 local non-governmental organizations for the purpose of conducting interviews with the staff and then visiting the rural communities they partner with. In interviews, NGO staff will first be asked what criteria they use for selecting the communities they assist and how this may have affected their ability to accomplish their goals in the community. Then, the investigators will collect information, gathered through interviewing NGO staff and the community members, regarding material conditions in the community before the NGO’s involvement and afterward. Such data will be gathered across several organizations and the communities they work with in order to evaluate the effect of selection criteria on the NGO’s ability to effect change. The data will then be compared to theoretical information regarding selection criteria that generally predicts NGO effectiveness. Finally, the correspondence between the obtained data and theoretical data will be evaluated. Discrepancies and/or agreements in data will be discussed with the NGO staff to hear possible explanations for them.

Collected information will be used to help the researchers develop selection criteria for an NGO they are starting called the SHARED Element. The mission of the SHARED Element is “to connect the dots of development.” The SHARED Element is designed to enable rural communities to develop solutions to their own problems and implement these solutions through partnerships with the government, the market, and the non-profit sectors. More information can be found at www.sharedelement.org.

Jet lag and a cultural cannonball

Event accounting
ate. ate. and ate some more- seems to be a theme, definitely not a complaint. Spent yesterday in a stupor... I have come to realize that my mental faculties melt and drip away like a 50 cent McDonalds cone when it gets really hot (and yesterday wasn't even that hot by standards here). Coupled with hardcore jet lag this left me in a pretty sorry state in which I was introducing myself to the nice people I will be staying with for the next month. Hope I can overcome my first impression of awkward vacant agreeablity and learn to better understand and converse through the accented English of Tej's family. This has become easier already.
Last night we went to a Bazaar... typical developing world market that was remarkably similar to what I saw in both China and Peru (lots of heavily accented salesman assuring me of their ready friendship, good prices and superior wares. hundreds of pirated DVD's and knockoff clothing. cheap watches, etc)

Reflection on transition
This is by far and away the most difficult cultural transition I have had to make. Unlike China and Peru, the vast majority of my time will not be spent with American peers but rather I have jumped right into the dinner table of an Indian family. CANNONBAAAALLL!!! I'm trying hard to take in this experience unfiltered, to see the world here as vivid color patches- eyes wide. Oh... and to not capsize anyone's boat with my diving in.
Yesterday was a difficult day... but a day that I hope will provide much growth and a deeper sense of self on which I can rely in the future. I would be content if this type of cultural immersion turns out to be half as fulfilling, valuable, and rich as I think it will be.
Random thoughts
Perhaps the most gratifying aspect of travel as I've found it is contact with the other (and there was plenty of that yesterday)... there is really no substitute for this- by definition it is impossible to create the other from ourselves. Perhaps even impossible to define ourselves apart from the other. hmm... that will require more thought.

Interesting quote to end on, a twist on Plato by an Indian Sociologist that rings true with my experience with myself. "Man is not a rational but a rationalizing animal..."

On Arrival and Hospitality

Quick log of things that have happened thus far:
Arrived- made it through the airport and spotted Tej amids a big crowd outside the airport...
His cousin and uncle came to pick me up despite the fact that it was 2 AM and then treated me to a meal despite the unreasonable hour. I ate. and ate... and then ate some more. I'm not even going to attempt to spell the names of all the food (I can barely even say/ remember all of them) but it was all incredibly flavorful and delicious- despite the fact that I could barely finish. (there is not a food here that is not well seasoned) After a much needed shower, (I spent 50 consecutive hours either in Airports or on planes) I slept and slept hard.
This morning I woke up slow, had a large and scrumptious lunch. Tej and I are headed to MIDS this afternoon to hopefully make first contact there... MIDS stands for the Madras Institute of Development Studies and will hopefully be a fruitful partner/ guide in our research... (http://www.mids.ac.in/aboutus.htm)

The most overwhelming/ striking thing thus far has been the gracious Hospitality of Teju's family- alluded to above in regards to my 2 am meal. Hospitality here seems to mean: kind welcome and food in large quantities... It is going to be a very good month here- these are kind and generous people.

I'm eager and excited to venture outside the house and begin our work here...